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A few days in Eskdale

25th - 31st May 2026

Our friend Helen who lives in Cumbria was celebrating a significant birthday by throwing a party for her family and walking friends on the 31st so Sue and I booked a cottage near Boot for a few days before so we could meet and walk with Helen and other friends who were gathering for the party.

We struck lucky with the weather and enjoyed some very warm and sunny days. We arrived in Eskdale mid afternoon after a surprisingly stress free drive on the Bank holiday and after tea I went for a short stroll through Boot to find a waterfall that I last visited over twenty years ago. The first few days of the week were blessed with gorgeous evening light. This is Harter Fell.

 

And this Gate and Hartley Crags where I've enjoyed two nice camps.

Walking over the bridge by Boot Corn Mill.

I followed the corpse road out of Boot which eventually passes Burnmoor Tarn and Wasdale. I was surprised at how close Great How looks as I know it's quite a walk to reach it. Scafell is the fell behind.

I found the waterfall in Whillan Beck which I was looking for. I remember the sign a fixed to the rock which warns you not to dive was a lot clearer on my last visit.

Just below the waterfall there is a building which looks like it could also have been a corn mill at one time.

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More lovely evening light over the Stainton Fells as I made my way back past the farm at Gill Bank.

Just before you reach Boot there are a couple of more well known and more well visited falls by the path.

2.3 miles with no real ascent.

On Tuesday Helen and our friend Catherine ( who we hadn't walked with for several years) came to the cottage and we had a walk along the shaded paths up the valley following the Esk. We needed the shade as the day was red hot. After tea I again went on a short walk directly from the cottage this time taking to the higher ground to visit Blea Tarn. This is looking along Eskdale from the path which zig zags up Hollinghead Bank.

There was not a breath of wind so Blea Tarn was like a mirror. I made my way to Bleatarn Hill which is the higher ground across the tarn.

Looking back down over the tarn from Bleatarn Hill.

And in the other direction are the high fells starting on the left with the lower slopes of Illgill Head then Yewbarrow and Kirk Fell, Great Gable a little slice of Lingmell, Scafell, Long Green, Slight Side and in the right foreground Great How.

Super light again over Harter Fell and Green Crag.

And over the Stainton Fells.

As there was no breeze I was eaten alive by midgies but I stuck it out waiting for the sunset.

Which to be fair was worth the pain.

Another look to the high fells from the path back to Boot by the peat huts.

2.7 miles with 400ft ascent

The following morning thankfully wasn't quite as warm as I set out for a night on the fell. My path took me along the valley and then up to higher ground heading for Harter Fell.

After a stiff climb on which I was entertained by fighter jets streaking below me in the valley ( too fast for me to catch with the camera ) I reach the top of Harter Fell. This is looking to the semi circle of high fells which surround Eskdale. The Scafell group is on the left then Esk Pike, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags.

And to the east is Seathwaite Tarn and the Coniston group.

After a very tricky descent down past Maiden Castle the walk along by the Duddon towards Black Hall farm was a joy. To my left the rejuvenated Hard Knott forest was alive with birdsong and to my right the Duddon calmly burbled along.

A short tramp along the Hard Knott pass road led me to the turn off for Moasdale. The slightly overcast skies from earlier had been replaced by blue sky and sunshine and the day which whilst not as hot as Tuesday was still pretty warm especially as I had one more stiff climb before I could pitch up for the night.

Little Stand above Mosedale.

The classic view of the Scafell range from where I climb out of Moasdale following Stonesty Gill.

I wondered if it would be possible to climb up the gill and I did manage to scramble up by a couple of small cascades but eventually I came to one which I couldn't climb so had to take to the steep heather decked slopes which thankfully soon gave way to grass.

A look down to Moasdale from high on the side of Stonesty Pike. Hard Knott is the fell opposite and Harter the pointed fell behind.

Finally on to my pitch for the night at Adam-a-Cove in the same place where I camped in 2021.

Crinkle Crags above me.

A brew with a view of the pink evening clouds and Harter Fell.

Another lovely sunset over the Scafell group. Unlike last night I wasn't bothered by midgies as the breeze was quite lively and increased in the night so had a bit of a broken nights sleep

Another lovely morning but the wind was still blowing quite strongly although as soon as I started to descend by Swinsty Gill it dropped to virtually nothing.

As I was walking down towards Lingcove Beck I thought the morning light over White Pike, Pikes and Caw in Dunnerdale was lovely.

A view along the valley of the Esk

The falls passed just before you reach Lingcove Bridge.

The walk back down following the Esk is lovely at any time but on this warm sunny morning it was especially so.

Penny Hill farm.

Strange "spaceship" cloud over Eskdale.

I crossed the river on the stepping stones by St. Catherine's church.

About 15 miles with 4000ft ascent.

The following day was forecast to start out bright but rain was due later in the afternoon. I walked from the cottage up to Hartley Crag. The path leaves the main valley path at this ford and climbs through the trees.

After a not too strenuous climb Hartley Crag comes in to view.

The ridge up to Hartley Crag looks quite tricky but in reality is quite easy.

Around half way up you get this nice view over Eskdale to the high fells.

Once I reached Hartley Crag I decided that I'd go over Gate Crag and follow the lay of the land towards the path coming up from High Birker. This is looking down along Eskdale to the coast from just past Gate Crag.

Despite it being half term the fells were very quiet and just as I reached the track to Green Crag I met the first person I'd seen on my higher walks he was a lad with a gorgeous border collie who was climbing a few Wainwrights and we chatted as we made our way towards Green crag. I took this photo of the fells around the head of Eskdale whilst having a breather on the climb to Green Crag. I'd tried to keep up with the lad whilst we chatted but it had tired me out.

After saying good-bye and wishing him well on his round I descended from Green Crag, crossed the saddle and climbed Crook Crag.

From Crook Crag I made my way down in the direction of Kepple Crag and the path back to the valley. Esk Pike, Bowfell and Crinkle Crags are the fells behind this interested bystander

Another interested bystander watching as I crossed the boggy ground just below the climb to Kepple Crag.

Looking back to Crook Crag and the other fells just passed through.

about 7 miles 1800 ft ascent

It did start to rain but only gently but did absolutely throw it down in the night. Luckily it was dry for Helen's party the following day ( which was outdoors) and the birthday celebrations rounded off a great week.

 

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